European travel and lifestyle
I’m going to speak from the heart. And when I say heart, I mean stomach. Nothing will move me to tears faster than a well-cooked quesadilla. Or, in this case, a Salzburg pizza.
Whilst I enjoyed darting around Salzburg, I felt even more passionate about the food. As we had no tours or specific activities to work around, our days were planned around meals. And what to eat. Or considering how far we’d have to walk in-between eating.
To give you a manageable bitesize, here are my top three favourite places to eat in Salzburg.
And the Augustinian hermits said, beer in hand: “All travellers in Salzburg shall come to our beer hall, drink a stein and wonder why life isn’t as great where they live”.
Of course, the Augustinerkloster didn’t say that (that I know of). However, they probably had it in mind when they first built the Augustiner Bräu Salzburg Mülln).
Founded in 1605, you can find the brewery, beer hall and gardens by turning left from Mirabell Palace, crossing the Salzach River and continuing towards Lindhofstrasse. Try and arrive a little earlier, as it can get incredibly crowded.
The building is formed by a series of separate halls and corridors, with a central arcade area where all beer barrels are stored. To get a drink, go to the cashier and order a token, which you can then exchange for a stein mug. Augustiner Bräustübl is traditionally self-catered, so rinse your mug at one of the wells and join the queue to get your beer fun started.
The corridor next to the arcade acts as a market area. Here you’ll have access to an ungodly amount of chips and meat. Sausages, pork, hamburgers, fried chicken… it was my personal paradise.
Why, you ask? Well, aside from partaking in something so intrinsically germanic and local (several tables are permanently reserved for regular guests and clubs), it catered to my love of meat in a way that no other place has done so before. If you can’t imagine what meat bliss looks like, just use the picture below. Fair warning: do skip ahead if a large – very large– pile of meat isn’t your idea of a good meal.
When abroad, I normally avoid Italian food like the plague. It’s not out of distaste for it – I love cooking tortellini after a seven-hour staring battle with my computer screen. But that’s what Italian food is to me: comfort food I can easily get all year round. Why go for it when the countries I visit have their own typical dishes?
That said, Salzburg did manage to sway me (ever so slightly) in the other direction. When researching restaurants, I was surprised to find that one of the top-ranked places to eat was a small, well-priced pizzeria on the outskirts of the Old Town area. As we had time to kill (and my desire for cheese on that exact day knew no boundaries), we headed down to Franz Josef Strasse to check out.
The first thing that strikes you about Organic Pizza Salzburg is how small it is. With around four tables and a narrow bar area, the restaurant isn’t made to cater many customers in one sitting. The reason for this became obvious in their approach to making speciality organic and vegan pizzas. As soon as we ordered from the limited menu (which also let us decide on the kind of dough we wanted), the owner dashed out to buy fresh ingredients. What we got in exchange for the wait was a crispy pizza with a thin base, emphasising the green herbs and mozzarella they used to make each one. The atmosphere was friendly and the staff were more than happy to recommend their own personal favourites. All in all, it was a fantastic surprise that has happily changed my mind.
If you’ve already read my historical Salzburg post, you’ll know that it’s possible to spend a whole day in Old Town. The cafes, medieval signs and boutique shopping makes it the place to go for days (and nights) out. As we were lucky enough to stay in the area, it would be a shame to not include at least one gem.
Surrounded by foxes left, right and centre, Alter Fuchs takes unabashed pride in everything Austrian: schnitzel, roast pork with dumplings, cordon bleu and the like. Warm and cosy, you’ll either love it for the dark polished wood, cushioned arm rests and never-ending supply of pretzels; or be slightly unnerved by the sometimes hit-or-miss service and large amount of taxidermy. Luckily, our waitress was on-point and the schnitzel a winner. Enjoy a coffee there before heading out to some of the busier bars further down the road.
Do you have any personal favourites (perhaps some that feature a little less meat)? Let me know in the comments below or tweet @sideroutes.
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